Inspired by the sombre, shadowy landscape and monochrome photography of Edward Steichen, Clarence White and Alfred Stieglitz, Mary Katrantzou presented a collection that gave the impression of a succession of walking works of art, marrying two extraordinary artforms.
Shapes came dramatically folded in origami layers, sharply linear, architectural and then rounded. Strapless dresses that fanned out across the chest and split to the thigh, shorter styles that swathed the body in artistry, long coat dresses, rounded styles and all topped with elfin crops that were at once androgynous and delicately feminine. So pronounced were some of the ensembles that they were already evident before they had reached the peak of the runway, framing the girl who stood ready to turn and give it its proper due.
Embracing the concept of design in every way, Katrantzou impressed with her appreciation of the medium and daring approach to the new season.