Fyodor Golan come of age

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I was struck by this duo at last season’s exhibition, drawn in by their knack for exotic-meets-wearable style. The rich sapphires and tangerines of SS13 have been replaced by intricate abstract floral prints and a more fragile palette of lily-white, azure blue and sunset orange for the AW13 collection at Fyodor Golan.

Taking inspiration from Luis Banuel’s coming of age tale Belle De Jour (1967), the designers’ use of folds and elaborate pleats reflect the unfurling of a flower in early bloom and similarly the young girl from Banuel’s narrative blossoming into a woman. So too the raindrop-like beadwork and shimmering organza sculpted around the female form spoke of nature’s beauty in all its elements. Sheer chiffon, silk, sequins and later a floor-length peplum skirt made for beauty that was all grown-up with the veiled promise of adult drama.

The duo explained their desire to create a more unilaterally accessible style – which came by way of a cropped jacket that was both biker and tailored and knitted turtleneck dresses – saying: “We want to expand the wardrobe for our customer. We have evening, now we want to dress her for more occasions. We want to branch out, but keeping our ethos and our signatures: texture and handwork.”

It is not that often that a partnership works so fluidly, but this pair, utterly in sync with one another, are testament to the fact that two heads are better than one.


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