Standing motionless in the catwalk entryway in preparation for her walk into the sea of flashbulbs and media scrutiny; the first model at Bora Aksu waited for the beats of the dramatic soundtrack to set the scene before striding out along the narrow white runway strip.
Hair wrenched into tightly braided buns in a style across between Heidi and Princess Leia and foreheads gripped by Twenties-esque headwear, Aksu paid homage to the infamous Dolly Sisters with his AW13 collection. Creating his new season line around the tragic vaudeville twins, who captured 1920s New York, the designer dressed his woman in corsets and pencil skirts and flapper dresses in varying hues of fuchsia, silver grey and cream.
Scalloped edges and detail blurred into articulated silhouettes and accentuated shoulders, while buttery soft turkish leather sat alongside plush furs and floaty sheath dresses as Aksu narrated a life filled with conflict. Shearling pelts, luxury coated silks and intricate embroidery played out in an overwhelming aesthetic of high glamour, while the Turkish designer’s knack for detail revealed itself by way of exquisite lace work, beading and laminated lace.
Shoulder flaps appeared along with the occasional tie adornment in a nod to the arrival of women in the workplace and the political arena during the 1920s and the evolution of a more accessible, practical and at times masculine take on style. Retaining the corsetry, which had been eschewed during the ‘20s, Aksu used the traditionally Victorian undergarment to sculpt and shape certain pieces while pretty A-line chiffon dresses offered a softer, dreamier side to the collection.