There was an air of Hitchcockian allure on the catwalk at the Marc by Marc Jacobs show at Manhattan’s Lincoln Centre on Monday night, as a wave of ice blondes sporting crimson pouts, dark glasses and Forties shapes wafted down the runway. Punctuated by the occasional brooding Norman Bates character, Jacobs presented an array of pencil skirted, psychedelic printed, plaid-covered ensembles that gave a subtle nod to the Seventies and a firm handshake to work-wear sophistication.
Big hair and tiny waists were complemented by a ‘70s colour palette of rust browns, deep teals, cabernet reds and navy with the occasional black to anchor the collection which later gave way to bright colour pops of cerise, crimson, cayenne and then shimmering satin variants. Offering a dual aesthetic for the AW13-14 season, on the one hand soft shapes strewn with over the top prints coloured in gutsy shades and on the other solid colours and linear silhouettes; the Marc by Marc Jacobs collection was at once refined and playful. Belted sheaths and printed high neck blouses played just as starring a role as the solid silk wool satin jackets and suit trousers.
Cropped trousers wide-legged and slim contrasted against longer styles that fell past the ankle paired with slim-cut crew-neck t-shirt blouses sporting a half-moon meets yin and yang motif or high neck tops, while oversize A-line midi coats offered glimpses of shiny satin mini-dresses beneath. Bags came boxed or round but always chunky and florals worked their way onto everything from a skin-tight blouse to an airy playsuit modelled by Cara Delevigne. Evoking the sultry glamour of classic Hollywood, when the likes of Tippi Hedren and Marlene Dietrich ruled the red carpet, Jacobs has masterfully captured the era of refined grace and elegance while staying true to his knack for injecting just the right dose of playful whimsy.