Shapes were big at Miuccia Prada’s collection for Miu Miu. Billowing with volume, awkwardly oversized and impactful in making a statement. The Miu Miu girl was given a new season make-over that left her with all of her youthful optimism but added a high shine gloss of maturity. Grown-up mid-calf skirts and gloves, ruched at the wrist and adorned with jewellery recalled the Forties fashions of our grandmothers but placement and positioning channelled a different tune via luxurious tie-dyed furs slung over the shoulder and jackets barely fastened with the aid of a solitary brooch. It was a collection that wanted to prove its knowledge of grown-up glamour but was choosing to subvert it with dashes of sultry sex appeal. There was something very Dita von Teese about the blunt fringes that peeked from the hairline, and the visible bras and exposed skin that threatened to be completely on show if just for a pull of the delicate antique brooch holding the look together.
It was at once proper and ladylike, with a hidden edge of erotica. The Miu Miu girl had embraced her inner geek, comfortable now in her own skin, enough to laugh at her own ungainliness in too-big coats that were almost wearing the models rather than the other way around. But those bulky silhouettes got sexy when the horn-rimmed glasses came off and the pouts of assurity came out. Glossy patent jackets, both primly tailored and floor-length teamed with thigh-skimming shifts and heels showcased the two sides of this girl’s personality, both classy geek and burlesque seductress. An understated palette of red, peachy pink, black, white and grey pulled in the reigns of the capsule, as simple shades married with extreme shapes and indulgent textures from velvet to glossy patent. While Prada pulled off gregarious geisha girls in Milan, its little sister was ever so slightly more gentile while retaining the awkward sensibility of one who still has much to learn.
Catwalk images: copyright vogue.co.uk