Words like theatrical, dramatic and over the top spring to mind when one thinks of designer, John Galliano (we’ll leave the unmentionable bout of alleged anti-semetic ramblings to its darkened corner). No, today, it’s all about the fashion. The luxurious, spectacular, decadence that transformed hats into memorable occasions to dress for, like boarding the H.M.S. Titanic or attending a ball at Pemberley, such were the lavish swathes of tulle that festooned the oversized saucer headpieces. In some instances they were quite at odds with the hip hop-esque apparel beneath, in one case wide-legged flowing harem style trousers and an origami-folded bandeau top.
Black chiffon wafted around the body to form a giant stole and silhouettes remained big and slouchy on the descent as city shorts were blown up to voluminous proportions. Dresses coloured in salmon and hints of lavendar were draped over the body in folds you would like to sink into, while cardigan-style tops were wrapped snugly around the body and teamed with ballerina tutu-skirts in puffs of sheer fabric. Coats hung in flowing origami folds – that oriental reference of the season making itself known – and ponchos fell in waterfall ripples in tones of ice blue, black and white. Loose sleeveless vests hung over exaggerated bloomer trousers and strapless dresses that ended just short of the knee gathered and bunched to the hip where the fabric met ruffles and ribbons. Off-the-shoulder tops featured skirted accompaniments which gathered at the waist in ruched pleats and bows, while daisy yellow brush strokes were painted onto the canvas of an inflated poncho.
Trousers ran into indecision just past the waist, opting to flow into spherical ballgown shapes before resorting to their original horizontal direction as the fabric met the ankle and layers and layers of black, white and grey tulle cascaded down from those origami folded bandeaus, forming rivulets of ruffles at the hem. It was a collection oozing with indulgence; one which toyed with an array of catwalk trends but one which ultimately stayed true to its elaborate creative host, the one and only John Galliano.
Catwalk images: copyright vogue.co.uk