A leading light of the fashion industry, a testament evidenced by the presence of the high style priestess herself, Anna Wintour on the front row; Givenchy presented its ideal for the new season style. In his eighth year at the creative helm of the esteemed fashion house, Riccardo Tisci, looked to a combination of archived Givenchy aesthetics, the shapes of the Sixties and the simplistic purity of nuns. None of the loud and glitzy references of Whoopi Goldberg’s foray into the ecclesiastical, this was all about serenity and the restraint that comes with living a pure life. Neck and hem-lines were modestly cut, hair was slicked back and nondescript and make-up was minimal. However, it was a collection not without a certain amount of edge as the influence of Italian furniture designer, Carlo Mollino saw rivets securing waists and shoulders in place, pinning down traces of ruffle and flounce and wrapping the throat in transparent chokers.
It was as though the fashion was commenting on the internal struggle for self control, hinting at the desire to let loose once in awhile. Those delicate ruffles were symbolic of the freedom Tisci also wanted to convey, as one shoulder of a plain black sweater evolved into ripples in place of a sleeve, while fluid black satin fell away from its chokered fastening and mini skirts created split flaps astride trousers or trailed in their wake in ethereal wisps. Zip detailing came into play towards the latter part of the catwalk, featuring on collars, wrists and waists offering the temptation to liberate them and split them open. Colours were pared back to baby blue, white and black, contrasting against design details like the spherical wings of billowing sleeves and the angelic curves of short sleeved jackets. Playing hard against soft, edgy against serenity, it was a collection which in Tisci’s own words comprised “sensual, purity and tough.”
Catwalk images: copyright vogue.co.uk