Haider Ackermann and the Pirates

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It sounds like the title of the latest Pixar animation, but in fact it was the overriding motif for Columbian designer, Haider Ackermann’s spring summer 13 show. Renowned to be the master of a good jacket, Ackermann capitalised on this piece in all manner of variations from black satin to leather, and judo-style creations to versions featuring origami folds. Tied at the waist with obi belts – a signature piece for the designer but one which has been integrated into other catwalks, namely Etro and Pucci – shirts and jackets blossomed out from the waist to form billowing silhouettes. That trace of oriental styling also crept in by way of origami folds which transferred from the hemline of jackets to the necks of sleeveless tops. Quantities of fabric cascaded out from leather belted bandeaus and slinky strapped tops to form dresses strewn with polka dots both large and pin-prick small, trailing over leather and wicker-basket black trousers. Leather belts full of swagger dashed against white separates and long flowing coats while caged black boots added a ruggedly sexy appeal.

Dresses with tattooed floral panels reaching from throat to naval were mixed in against poncho wraps which bunched and gathered in fabricated folds, simultaneously falling away from the body with languid ease. Midnight blue satin and purple – both on the garments and the models lips – together with black and white formed the sombre, yet romantic, colour palette playing to the mood created by the eerily flickering lights and sorrowful canter of the voice-over narrative. Contrasting textures and patterns, layering black tuxedo jackets over leather biker counterparts, Ackermann always retained an edge of elegant wearability across a collection that though toyed with the concept of gender was overtly androgynous, a style that has pursued the designer’s aesthetic. Poster girl for genderless sex appeal, Tilda Swinton, sat front row as Ackermann’s moody yet ever-strong vision for the new season played out.

Catwalk images: copyright vogue.co.uk


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