Previously at the creative helm of Jil Sander – the headlining act at Milan – before her return and his subsequent appointment at the house of Christian Dior in April, Raf Simons unveiled his first ready-to-wear collection for the esteemed fashion house. Merging his youthful aesthetic with the essence of Dior’s vision, Simons began with a series of exquisitely tailored black jackets accessorised by a simple scarf tied at the neck in incarnations of black, pink and red satin. The jacket continued through the capsule, lengthening to form dresses and eschewing sleeves for strapless variations. From sleek sophistication to delicious glamour, puffball mini-dresses came one-shouldered and strapless in hues of shimmering metallic saffron, ice blue and dusky pink, worn over little black shorts. Black and pink striped short dresses added to the “mini” silhouette, which was the length of choice for Simons’ spring summer wardrobe, as more versions wafted out at thigh-skimming proportions, some pleated, some in layers of clear and coloured cellophane and others hugging the body with halos of tulle or sheer chiffon wafting in their wake. It was a collection that, as the show notes explained, found its ethos in freedom and liberation saying of Simons: “He embraced the feminine, the complex and the emotional; an idea of freedom and what had gone before.” From the romance of full skirted ball skirts strewn with floral prints, to folded tuxedo vests and simple jackets, it was a collection that aimed to cater to every type of woman. Unusual yet beautiful it pirouetted Simons’ creative spirit front and center as the fashion set bathed in the fabulous aura that emanated from a capsule that at its core was eternally Dior.
Catwalk images: copyright vogue.co.uk