Future thinking at Roland Mouret

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Explaining the ethos behind his spring summer 13 collection, Roland Mouret said: “It’s weird, the collection this year. As a designer you’re asked to predict the future and you have to have a sense of honesty. I went back to a troubled period, the Eighties, when I was younger, when you believed in the future because you had to.” In the spirit of such a profound realisation, the designer employed the top heavy silhouette that has emerged as one of the most popular trends this season, bolstering suit jackets, dresses and tops with shoulder pads. Putting forward a statement skirt suit in strawberry red, Mouret unveiled a palette composed of bold hues, such as jade and plum, together with black and white. Like Balmain, the designer opted for a motif that took its reference from the power dressing yuppee culture of the 1980’s, weaving it together with oriental flavour in the form of origami pleats, folds and draped fabric. A nod to the Nineties, and another trend to have emerged this season, Mouret put his spin on cropped with jackets that ended short of the waist and square cut tops that sat above tapered, high-waist trousers in leather-look mud silk (a couture technique that involves the fabric being cooked under moonlight). The collection was clearly branded with the signature twist of the designer, while various tweaks and articulated shapes breathed new season life into the Mouret style.

Catwalk images: copyright vogue.co.uk

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