It was game, set and match as Rochas presented a spring summer 13 collection that appeared to have loped directly off the tennis courts of the French Open. Fluid white satin shirts were paired with micro shorts, bandanas and school-gym favourite, the plimsol, though with Rochas’ interpretation the trusty tennis shoe was transformed into a second skin, gliding from ankle to mid-calf to knee high and laced from toe upwards. The white theme continued across embroidered separates and ankle-skimming wide leg trousers with bold red lips injecting the only trace of colour. Slinky satin slip dresses took the on-court look off-duty and with the introduction of dove grey and bead-adorned dresses and coats, we were given a view of a vocational path which veered away from sporting success and into business savvy. White shirt collars peeked out from figure-forming dresses and inflated bead-encrusted tops, while skinny white belts nipped in waists and broke up uniform shades. Flowing maxi-skirts in white, wafting floral print and black breezed down the runway as the collection took a turn for the Fifties.
Pretty undergarments in dusky peach embellished once again with beads, floral and later richer hues of red and black changed the mood of the show as shapes took on a fuller, curvaceous format with Fifties prom dresses in black satin, embroidered white, red and black floral and vibrant raspberry pink satin. Preppy day dresses were teamed with those faithful plimsols which now showed up in an occasional black, and skin was exposed via bandage-wrap tops in dusky shades of pink whispering of the secret they were unwraveling. Warm maroon pencil and mini skirts mixed up the palette with complementary tones of mauve and burnt sienna in a nod to the seasonal orange trend. An electrifying red and black floral coat – made even more so by the model’s fire red hair and cherry red bandana – billowed out like metres of a bride’s veil, worn over a matching trousseau of Fifties underwear. The motif of tennis player chic returned towards the finale of the catwalk, this time eschewing the purist white for vivid raspberry and black satin. No doubt the stars of the tennis world will be picking up these trends along with their rackets for next year’s on-court events.
Catwalk images: copyright vogue.co.uk