Gareth Pugh plays Chopsticks

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There were a variety of cult and cultural references at play in Gareth Pugh’s spring summer collection, ranging from dominatrix leather to oriental chopsticks splicing through severe up-do’s and black domed bee-keeper veils. The heavily black palette that comprised the beginning ensembles was at once gothic and reminiscent of the garb donned by Wesley Snipes and peers in the Blade franchise. Long black leather coats whooshed out behind models who were otherwise sporting wispy flared trousers, separates and dresses that jutted out at graphic angles, high-collared dresses and daring pink eye make-up streaking across the eyes. Theatrical veils that started out high above the models’ heads and dipped to simply wrap around their faces revealed echoes of the gothic stage show The Woman in Black, while fringing flew from the sleeves of a black suede dress creating the sartorial version of bat wings. Silver threw out the sombre black with patterned coats and skinny trousers, transforming into vampiric blood-red garments of fluid floor length gowns, aristocratic ruffles and layers of fringed folds on knee and floor length dresses. A cream corset was paired with a floor-sweeping coat, whose top half was blazer and latter part was swingy and feminine. Black leather wedges took the gothic-meets-vampire hunter look from head to toe in Pugh’s most unseasonal summer wardrobe.

Catwalk images: copyright vogue.co.uk

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