Big Shoulders at Balmain

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Balmain did what Balmain does best. Shoulders. Big, exaggerated, super-structured and triangular. The kind of shoulders you’d find on a hulking mafia heavy in bowler hat and trench. Working from a reference of Nineties pop and Eighties power dressing, creative director Olivier Rousteing marked his third season at the fashion house with a celebration of the brand’s signature aesthetic. Broadness up top tapered down into high-waist trousers in black patent, stripes and diamond-print formations and flared out into trapeze style skirts. Cropped tops and tube tops recalled the best of the Nineties pop scene, taking their cue from muse and musical soul-singer Sade. Homage was paid to the power suits of an era fashion almost forgot, were it not for the pastiche trend in reworking styles gone by, in black and yellow stripes, monochrome diamonds once more and textured paisley designs. Attention-grabbing creations in blue and yellow were silhouette-forming, bejewelled and flecked with silver, while jackets and blazers came in slouchy black leather, satiny tuxedo-style and doses of denim, and always with shoulders larger than life.

Catwalk images: copyright vogue.co.uk

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