LFW Day One: The Fashion

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From the skyscrapers of Manhattan to the cobbled streets of London, fashion week uproots its catwalks, publicists and allure to the British capital. Kicking off the action was design duo, Antoni & Alison, celebrating their 25th anniversary with a brass band and an exciting new season collection. Parading out colourful silk dresses in every imaginable shade, from pink and green to red and overriding favourite for many designers, orange, the pair unveiled their combined artistic talents. Wearable works of art, silk shifts were cleverly illustrated with brush strokes and crayon scribbles, as well as prints of glitter, illustrated flowers and embellishment.

Julian Macdonald evaded the catwalk, instead inviting select editors and writers to his atelier on Saville Row where he has been focussing his attentions for the past year. Revealing a collection inspired by Hollywood sex symbol, Sharon Stone à la Basic Instinct, from white sheath dresses slashed with jewels to knitted versions featuring tribal paint and markings, his line was bold and powerful. With an upcoming role as fashion correspondent on Grandma’s favourite telly show Strictly Come Dancing spin-off It Takes Two, Macdonald assures his loyal followers, ‘I’ll be back!’

A further fashion pairing, Fyodor Golan – comprised of Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman – presented a spiritually charged season. A tribal collection, their models were exotic warriors in blue everything, from body-con and lattice-worked dresses and skirts to flowing gowns. Exotic was also true for travel junkie, Zoe Jordan as she instilled the essence of Africa into her eclectic and bohemian collection of signature easy separates. Pairing crops with harem pants and pink and silver bombers with metallic turquoise mini-skirts, the vibe was cool and relaxed, further reflected in the models’ tousled wet hair and black caps. Stalwart fans of tomboy elegance, Poppy Delevingne and Jameela Jamil, showed their support from the front row. One of the stars of Fashion Fringe, Corrie Nielsen, took a trip to Kew Gardens for her collection of tulip and peony shapes in shades of blush and peach to reveal light and feminine styles, while ruffled, voluminous and protruding gowns were horticulturally sculpted and architectural.

Australian duo Sass & Bide laced their collection with the ambiguous marriage of feminine masculinity, showing light, feathered shifts alongside heavier shoulder detailing and luxe, structured tailoring. An ethereal ‘ode to another time’ was the intended dialogue for their new season line translated into chiffon tail coats and a palette of Grecian whites and golds, though it seemed also to be firmly rooted in the present courtesy of the Drive soundtrack and a smattering of neon orange, black and disco ball silver. Cleverly interweaving the sexes, they added plunging necklines to suit jackets and petal shaped holes in trousers to reveal the female form beneath a range of androgynous garments.

From the looks of things, London is off to a fabulous start, and in the running for best dressed baby, my own race begins to beat out Suri Cruise and Harper Beckham…


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